Ricerc@Sapienza

An innovative method for the simulation of the hydrodynamics in the swash zone, related to the
wave run-up phenomenon, is presented. This method applies the exact solution of the Riemann problem over
a dry bed to correctly evaluate the celerity of water waves propagating over the shore, and so to precisely track
the coastline location. The simulations of velocity and wave fields outside the surf zone, inside the surf zone
and in the swash zone, are carried out by means of a numerical model which solves 3D motion equations

A numerical and experimental analysis of the wave overtopping over emerged and submerged structures, is presented. An original model is used in order to simulate three-dimensional free surface flows. The model is based on the numerical solution of the motion equations expressed in an integral form in time-dependent curvilinear coordinates. A non-intrusive and continuous-in-space image analysis technique, which is able to properly identify the free surface even in very shallow waters or breaking waves, is adopted for the experimental tests.