Ttme-dependent curvilinear coordinate system

Nonlinear waves and nearshore currents over variable bathymetry in curve-shaped coastal areas

Irregular coastlines and variable bathymetry produce nonlinear effects on wave propagation which play a significant role on the formation of nearshore currents. To protect the coastline from the erosional action of nearshore currents, it is usual to adopt coastal defence works such as submerged breakwaters. If properly designed, they give rise to circulation patterns capable to induce sedimentation of suspended material at the nearshore region.

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