Ricerc@Sapienza

Nel saggio introduttivo, in particolare nella sessione "patrimonio culturale e imprese moda" , viene svolta una riflessione sull'importanza che contenuti culturali, incluso il patrimonio storico, hanno per le imprese di moda italiane che operano nel mondo ipercompetitivo dell'economica globale. Il sistema moda italiano fa perno sull'esperienza storica di saperi e conoscenze, sedimentatesi attraverso generazioni di creativi e di esperienze distrettuali.

Nell’Anno Europeo per la salvaguardia e la valorizzazione del Patrimonio Culturale, ZoneModa Journal
(ZMJ) ha dedicato un numero speciale al Patrimonio Culturale della Moda, un tema intrinsecamente
complesso, ma di inestimabile ricchezza per la cultura e l’economia nazionale e internazionale.
Il problema della conservazione, trasmissione e valorizzazione del patrimonio culturale è ormai al centro di
importanti dibattiti internazionali e nazionali. Le politiche italiane, e più in generale dell’Unione Europea,

This text represents a short introduction to a collection of essays
aimed at students enrolled in Fashion Studies Master at Sapienza
University of Rome. The objective discussed in the text is both related complexity of the contemporary fashion system as well as to richness
and openness of an interdisciplinary approach to the field. It also presents some thoughts about the role of Fashion system in the Covid19 Pandemic

This chapter intends to analyse the processes of both branding and consumption. Not just the brand or just the consumer, but the complex interactions between all the practices and strategies made by both of them to build experiences that are valuable for both the brand and the consumer. A new approach requires a new perspective on brands and consumption practices within the contemporary fashion system that integrates brands, consumers and media organisations.

This collection of contributions was created to prove both the complexity of the contemporary fashion system as well as the richness and openness of an interdisciplinary approach to the field, that is the same that inspires the Master programme in Fashion Studies at Sapienza, University of Rome.

Nel nuovo ecosistema mediale il consumo di moda sta vivendo una fase di straordinaria trasformazione: da una parte i brand stanno progressivamente presidiando contenuti e piattaforme di comunicazione, diventando sempre più centrali nella costruzione di immaginari simbolici. Dall’altra, i consumatori si avvantaggiano della spalmabilità e diffondibilità della moda, all’interno di un ecosistema mediale accessibile in modo permanente e basato sulla circolazione digitale dei brand e dei loro significati.

The relationship between fashion and power has always been controversial. On the one hand power used fashion to represent itself, on the other side power distanced itself from fashion, considered too frivolous and unstable. So, accordingly to classical literature, power became the realm of men and fashion was the way women used to find their role in society (Simmel, Veblen).

What are the origins of contamination and correspondences between Fashion and Architecture? Habitus and Habitat are not just coatings or filters between us and the outside world, but they are masks with which we show and send information to the others. Following the socioeconomic upheavals arising from the Industrial Revolution, any covering “bears the imprint of its occupant” (Benjamin). The definitive hybridization between different artistic disciplines is realized with the Art Nouveau, under the reforms of the Chicago School in America and William Morris in Europe.

The international studies on gender and advertising date back to the early Seventies and cut across various disciplines, such as sociology (Goffman 1976), mass communications (Busby 1975), feminist theory (Barthel 1988), critical theory (Williamson 1978), and marketing (Courtney and Lockeretz 1971, Wagner and Banos 1973, Belkaoui and Belkaoui 1976). Despite some interesting exceptions (Alreck, Settle and Belch 1982, Gentry, Doering, and O'Brien 1978), these studies mainly focus on sexual-stereotype, female representations and role portrayals.